China

We returned from China on Friday, having thoroughly enjoyed two weeks of spectacular sights, delicious food, and the lovely and loving company of family. Overall, Zoe did pretty well on this trip; by now she was familiar with airplanes (indeed, whenever she sees or hears a plane overhead, she points and says the Mandarin word for "plane"), so she was reasonably well behaved on the flight. It helped that we had an extra seat on the flight from Los Angeles to Beijing, so Zoe could stretch out and sleep properly. Unfortunately Jackie and I weren't so lucky, and neither of us slept well. But our spirits were revived upon arriving in Beijing and reuniting with Mom, Dad, Ben, and Jackie's cousin Derrick.

For most of the first week, we were all understandably jetlagged -- I think I was hit particularly hard, and I felt like I was in a fog during the day. Zoe's routines were disrupted too, but we did our best to reset her with regular meals and naps, and she eventually settled down. In the meantime, we had a fairly free-form agenda, consisting of seeing the sights, dining at nice restaurants around the city, and taking naps when we couldn't go on any further. Fortunately, we had drivers to take us where we wanted to go, a maid to prepare meals for Zoe, and masseuses to make the aches and pains go away at the end of the day.

I won't go into a blow-by-blow account of all the things we saw and did, but I'll share the highlights. Of course, we visited the Great Wall (we chose the section of the wall at Simatai, in order to avoid crowds), the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, and the Lama Temple. We met friends for meals and drinks, and got to see the "new" Beijing that has resulted from the fast-paced development of recent years (and that accelerated, obviously, with the Olympics). Whether seeing the old or new, I was impressed and a little overwhelmed by Beijing -- its size, pace, and energy.

One of the highlights of our stay was a side trip that we took to the ancient capital of Xi'an, about a 90-minute flight to the southwest from Beijing. We were joined by Jackie's brother Ben and his girlfriend Anna, and they were fine travelling companions indeed. In Xi'an we saw the famed Terra-Cotta Warriors, and explored the old Muslim Quarter of the city. Best of all, Ben took some amazing photos of our activities, which I've posted here.

Joshua Tree

We just returned from a wonderful overnight trip to Joshua Tree National Park. We spent the night at the Jumbo Rocks campsite.



As with our Anza Borrego trip, Zoe enjoyed running around in the open spaces and digging in the sand.



We climbed to the top of Ryan Mountain (elevation 5457 feet). Zoe rode on our backs, of course, yet she still received praise from other hikers for her hiking "ability."

Back from the Badlands

We returned last night from a wonderful overnight camping trip to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park in the eastern part of San Diego county. We went with our good friends Ensie and Matthias, and their two boys, Jasper (age 4) and Elias (age 10 months).

On Friday morning we arrived in Borrego Springs, where we drove around the town to see the life-size prehistoric animal sculptures of Galleta Meadows Estate. A local property owner and a Mexican artist have teamed up to create several free-standing metal sculptures of Pliocene species that were native to the Borrego valley. The art was fun to see, and Zoe was fascinated by the huge beasts.

Zoe inspects the saber-toothed tiger.


















It was especially fun to show Zoe the giant tortoises, because "turtle" happens to be one of her favorite words. She's looking a little stunned here.













A family photo with the elephant.


















Quality time with the giant sloths.













After the sculptures, we headed east into the desert. We camped in Coachwhip Canyon, a few miles outside town. We picked a perfect spot -- quiet and peaceful, and plenty of open space and nooks for the children to explore. Zoe especially loved the sand - touching it, digging it, rolling around in it, and occasionally tasting it.

Matthias took this photo of our car camp. That's the tent that Jackie, Zoe and I shared. Inside you can see Zoe's Pack-and-Play portable crib. If you look closely at the photo, you'll see some people on top of the hill behind the camp; that's me, Jackie, Zoe, Ensie, and Jasper.













The view from the hills around Coachwhip Canyon.













Watching the sunset from the hilltop.













On Saturday we did a short hike to visit three palm oases. It's amazing how, once children enter the picture, it takes an entire day to complete a two-mile loop; gone are the days when we could cover 15 miles and still make it back home in time for dinner!












Jackie and Ensie pose in front of Seventeen Palms Grove.













Dennis and Zoe on the trail, with Una Palma in the distance.













Beauty and the Badlands.













Too much excitement for baby! Time for a nap.

Adventures in Singapore and Cambodia

Orchids at the Singapore Botanical Gardens

We just got back from our little 12 days holiday to Singapore and Cambodia and are we glad to be home! As always, as much as I love the experience of seeing new places and breathing a different air, I love coming home. This homecoming is especially sweet too because of Zoe. We knew traveling with a young child wouldn't be easy, but it was more challenging than expected both psychologically and physically. The getting to was especially hard. On our flight out, Zoe slept only four hours during the entire 18 hours journey. Most of the remainder hours were spent fussing or crying. It didn't help matters that I am perfectly capable of sleeping all 18 hours on a plane. Something about planes - perhaps the drone - knocks me out in general. Then, because of jet lag and various sightseeing activities, it was hard to get Zoe onto a regular schedule. On top of it all, she didn't eat much the entire time. In short, we worried about her, which marred our otherwise wonderful trip.

Luckily for us, Zoe is quite resilient. She was mostly good humored and was curious about the new surroundings. And, already, she has began to make up for her not eating much during the trip. She ate a huge quantity of sugar snap peas, a chicken sausage, pasta, and yogurt last night.

As to Dennis and I, we ate like Singaporeans (well, a lot and frequently), met some of my friends (glad to say that I think he thought all of them charming and great company and vice versa), and visited some of my favorite haunts in Singapore (Peranakan Place, Emerald Hill, Boat Quay, Botanical Gardens). We even chanced upon a little peak at my Primary School. Then, of course, most importantly, we took great pleasure in showing Zoe off to Gong-Gong and Puo-Puo, both of whom delighted in Zoe. And we celebrated with Puo-Puo her 70th birthday (the prime reason we chose to go back to Singapore).

It was quite festive and almost overwhelmingly loud and crowded at home for a few days. But that is just as I imagined a three generation Chinese household would be. It was quite wonderful to see Gong-Gong and Puo-Puo fuss over Zoe. Gong Gong personally supervised the making of fish porridge for Zoe! As expected, everyone thought Zoe too skinny and "must eat more!"

At the Botanical Gardens. I love, love, love the Singapore Botanical Gardens. I spent a lot of time there as a child (we lived across the road) and as an adult would visit it with friends on the weekends.

At the Tiong Bahru Market for an early breakfast of $1.50 a bowl Wanton Noodles, Chinese Tunip Cake ($1 for 6) and lots of Iced "Kopi." We decided to have Wanton Noodles because there was a long line at the stall selling it. It must be good if there is a line at 6:30 am in the morning for it. It took a good half hour before we sat down to eat our noodles. It was not bad. Wanton was excellent. Soup was good. Noodles so so.

Reunion with high school class mates. Excepting for Aili, I was 16 the last time I saw Junyi, Fong Chew and Garen.

Scary Looking Rain Clouds!

Breakfast at Fullerton Hotel. The food was so-so, but the view of Boat Quay and Singapore riverfront magnificent. When I was living in Singapore, I would sometimes walk home from boat quay. A somewhat longish walk, but completely pleasant and doable in the evening.

We (mom and dad, Ben, Uncle Send and Auntie Connie and Derrick) went to have a Bak Kuh Teh (Pork Ribs Soup) breakfast at this rather famous place on Rangoon Road.

With Dad

Dad was sooo happy when Zoe allowed him to carry her. We visited this particular food court three times while in Singapore. On our first visit, Dennis and I ordered four pratas, two fish ball noodles soup, fruits, ice coffee and an ice kachang for the two of us!

Dad following Zoe.

After a few days in Singapore, we took a little 4 days 3 nights side trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia to see the famed Angkor Wat. Siem Reap is a huge contrast to Singapore. Whereas Singapore is super clean and super modern, Siem Reap is - to me - like a time capsule of the old Singapore. Many of the roads were dirt roads, some of the stores look just like the stores the lined Bras Besah and North Bridge Road in the 70s. The Siem Reap river reminds me of the little canal that ran between Bukit Timah Road and Dunean road. But a lot of it is very new and ultra chic. There were wireless hotspots. A lot of the restaurants we saw would not look out of place in New York city.

Our First Tuk-Tuk Ride

Zoe really enjoyed riding in the Tuk-Tuk. She loved the wind.

Going to our first meal in Siem Reap at FCC Angkor

Very Yummy Lunch at the FCC.

Tummy filled, we head off to Angkor Wat - Here at the Entrance.

At Bayon

Of all temples we visit, Ta Prohm is probably my favorite. I love the mysteriousness of the temple and I love the trees that has become one with the temple structures.

If Dennis felt "Lord of the Rings" in New Zealand, I felt "Tomb Raider" in Angkor Wat!

Most of the temples are worn and in a state of disrepair. Walking among the ruins, I thought of the poem by Percy Bysshe Shelley:

I met a traveller from an antique land
Who said: "Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them on the sand,
Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown
And wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things,
The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed.
And on the pedestal these words appear:
`My name is Ozymandias, King of Kings:
Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!'
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,
The lone and level sands stretch far away.

Of course, being Buddhists (and Hindus), the kings probably never boasted as Ozymandias did.

On the bridge leading to Angkor Thom

One of the many beautiful stone carvings we saw gracing the walls of the temples.

Outside Banteay Srei

One of the intricately carved lintels at Banteay Srei

Pre Rup in the morning sun.

A busy street in the old market area now filled with bars and restaurants. Food is generally good and cheap in Siem Reap. All the restaurants we ate at had main courses that cost $3.50 to $5.50.

Fish Amok - One Of The Delicious Traditional Cambodian Dishes We Tried. This version came from Viroth's.

Happy at Viroth's, a most lovely boutique hotel. We loved the minimalist sensibilities of the owners. And we loved the salt water pool there. I actually went in there twice!

At the Elephant's Terrace at Angkor Thom

Zoe loves it when we let her have free play time. Here, you see her fascinated with the little holes in the stone blocks.